[The 2016 Bacigalipi Chardonnay] has narrative, and narrative to spare — from 100% of its fruit being sourced from the Bacigalupi Vineyard (which was planted in 1956 and was also the source of the winning chardonnay in the 1976 Judgment of Paris tasting) all the way to winemaker Debra Mathy being the first single woman to own a winery in Sonoma County. But even before all of that was the wine itself, which stood out to tasters for a provocative, can’t-put-my-finger-on-it aroma (pine sap? white pepper?) to a complexity so compelling that we wanted to pause and enjoy it on its own, aside from the “interruption” of food and the additional layers of taste it brings.